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Fashion and art, art clothes – Jacquemus, by Grace Stevenson

Jacquemus is not one for following the rules, he claims to have broken all of them, yet says, “I’m still here”. Having worked in retail for COMME des GARÇONS to become a young, emerging designer full time, Jacquemus is hoping that his name will become a noun, so people will say ”something could be a “Jacquemus”-y shirt”. [1]

Although Jacquemus’ designs are not one-off items, I still see them as art. Through the use of bright colours, courageous cuts, graphic texture and bold shapes, the garments do nothing but represent bold elements of art for me. Jacquemus talks of being inspired by all art forms. “He mixes a blend of classic French culture… with a witty modernity and false simplicity”. [2]

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All his collections explore the transgression of norms and conventions of ready to wear fashion, through his challenging of size and shape, unusual cuts and general mix of almost avant-garde style garments. His books are clearly of an art- inspired, playful nature, having women with drawings all over their faces, and photographs of children in oversized womens clothing, along with what seems like mother and child in the la femme infant (the infant woman) collection. Blogs have even suggested if Picasso and Matisse were still around, this collection would have had their high praise. [3], which I am not inclined to argue with.

Art clothes tend to lend their attention to textile design over form, and incorporate artisian techniques, as does Jacquemus. However, form still plays a large role in his garments. His use of motifs from French films as well as art, books and music, are apparent throughout all his lines. He likens his collections to concepts of a French holiday, childlike, an alternate reality that is free and dreamlike and “100% French.” [4]

Jacquemus has conquered both ready to wear fashion and demi-couture. The craft can be seen instantly in his work and although it may not appeal to all women, young and old, the lines have proven successful both on and off the catwalk.

[1] Moroz, S., 2014, Q&A: Simon Porte Jacquemus on Being a Young Designer in Paris, NY Mag, 28 May, viewed 15 September 2014 <http://nymag.com/thecut/2014/05/qa-jacquemus-a-young-designer-in-paris.html>

[2] Carresse, L., 2014, The Big Four, The Oxford Student, 3 September, viewed 15 September 2014 <http://oxfordstudent.com/2014/09/03/the-big-four>

[3] Bateman, K., 2014, Shape-shifter: Jacquemus fall/winter 2014, Opening Ceremony, 26 August, viewed 15 September 2014 <http://www.openingceremony.us/entry.asp?pid=10203>

[4] Carresse, L., 2014, The Big Four, The Oxford Student, 3 September, viewed 15 September 2014 <http://oxfordstudent.com/2014/09/03/the-big-four>

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